Day 31

Today, I went to the Royal Botanical Garden. It was beautiful, I got to see plants from all over the world. This was a good break from the hustle and bustle of the city, and after a few hours in there, I didn’t want to leave. It made me happy to see cacti, with all the beautiful things here, I didn't realize that I missed cactus. All the pretty flowers make me happy. All of the diverse trees they maintain there are very impressive, and also made me happy.

Hugo was actually pretty good with me today during the time that I had him, Elena took him to a dentist appointment, so I had some time with just the girls. Good day. I attempted to help Sofia with her math homework, but it was difficult. The directions were in French, and I could barely remember the geometrical formulas in English, let alone explain how to use them in Spanish. We struggled through a few problems with our broken languages, and then decided to set the math aside for when Elena returned. Fail, but I tried and helped a little.

It’s in the 90s here during the day, and there are no fans in the house, Dana and Elena just open all the windows, so it’s a bit toasty in the flat. The sun doesn’t set until 9:30ish, so it’s hard to convince the kids to come back from the urba when the weather is finally getting nice just before 9. Nicer, I should say, sitting in my room writing this, I’m sweating, but I don’t mind it. I walk all day in the heat here, and have an easier time with it than Elena and Dana. I'm still sure that the increased dry Arizona heat will hit harder when I return. 29 more days. 

Day 30!!!

Half-way through my trip!!

Today: Museo Naval. Lots of boats, weapons, and clothes and stuff. I’m so glad to not have to be on a ship for extended periods of time. That has to be so awful, I can’t believe some of the things people have endured. Walking around Madrid, I saw these gypsy performers who would walk into the middle of a crosswalk and put on a perfectly timed show with these yells, and juggling balls with baton things. Pretty legit. I also saw a guy whose dog would sing with him, fun stuff.

Hugo is so mean to me. He started again today with being angry at me for things like living in his house, dressing him, looking at him, breathing, existing . . . Sometimes I don't think I can handle another day of hearing his whiny voice, or watching him get what he wants, and be rewarded for crying and screaming and hitting. I am all for corporal punishment. Today in the urba, the neighborhood boys took their shirts off and used them as capes for a play bullfight. Only in Spain. :)

I think I am the most blessed girl ever, and I think I have it way better than the other au pairs and tutors here in several ways. One of the biggest is that I don’t drink. The others spend the bulk of their time and money getting wasted. Will spends most of his days at the mansion his host family lives at out by the pool or playing play station. As wonderful as that kind of sounds, the close and personal living space with the family has motivated me to get out more and see al these incredible things. Also, not having opportunities as available to hit the dance floor to blow off steam, take my anger out on the hockey court, clear my head with a piano session, or have an emergency ice cream run with my girlfriends after an overly tough day has caused me to rely heavier on the best sources for fortification: prayer, scriptures, patriarchal blessing, church, lds.org. I feel way more fortunate than the other au pairs to have these endless sources of strength, more responsibilities with the host family, and a better financial situation. I’m so blessed. 

Day 29

Still no luck with baptisms at the temple, but I visited the grounds for scripture study and talked to some of the sister missionaries. I was in a pretty good mood heading back to the metro station. After I went down to the platform, I saw my train was there, I quickened my pace, as a man leaving comes out of nowhere pushing a stroller. Naturally, I employ my ninja-like reflexes to dodge the stroller like a boss while stepping onto the train. Actually, the word ‘stepping' isn’t completely accurate, as my foot was never solidly planted, and I did an epic feet-in-the-air fall on my back. Some charming stranger helped me up and helped gather my watch that flew off my wrist and a couple things that my purse upchucked. I sat quietly whistling to myself until I was all too happy to get off four stops later.

I met up with Will to go to the National Archaeological Museum, but it was closed for construction. We wandered and ended up in Retiro Park exploring a plethora of booths selling books, then went to lunch at a Pizzeria. This was the most excellent pizza I had ever indulged in. The pizzas looked pretty big, and neither of us anticipated being able to finish, but they were surprisingly light, and we managed to demolish them. So good.  

Will’s host family lives way out in the boondocks, but he discovered that he can take the same bus as me to Moncloa (pretty much an underground airport) where we switch to the metro. After a wild goose chase to find a Tabacos shop since Will needed more bus tickets, I saw a Hungarian woman struggling to buy tickets in English. I was able to translate and explain to her which kind of pass she wanted for where she wanted to go. This made me feel great, since I remember my first week here being ridiculously confused trying to buy bus tickets and a kind stranger in the shop who spoke English explaining the mess to me. This also made me more grateful for the Spanish that I do have. English is not this woman’s first language, and it’s all she has to get by on here. 

Hugo wasn't too bad, no physical beating today. We went to the urba to play our favorite game that we made up that combines elements of tennis, racquetball, wall ball, and golf. I jumped rope with the neighborhood girls--I almost have the songs down in Spanish! Claudia complimented my Spanish today, and Elena said that I was doing wonderfully with the children (HUGE relief). I think I’m doing alright. Straight up dawg!

Day 28

How on earth does my hair straightener quit functioning and my eyeliner and mascara run dry all AT THE SAME TIME? Whatever, I guess there are things of greater importance. :p

I continued today with my Monday Prado project. I still haven’t seen everything, I found endless rooms leading into other rooms leading into staircases leading into floors filled with rooms leading into other rooms . . . it never ends. I have been so spoiled with everything I get to see. There are SO many paintings in Prado, and so many of them are GINORMOUS that when I walked into one room with a bunch of tiny sketches by Goya, I almost complained about having to get so close to make them out. They actually turned out to be some of my favorites.  I didn't realize how well the paintings are protected. There are little ropes no more than three feet high, a few feet away from the walls, but apparently if you lean over them, it creates a loud beeping noise which immediately summons a security guard. 

Elena has a workshop today and tomorrow for work, and today didn’t come back with the girls until 8:30. This means lots of one-on-one time with Hugo. He’s really easiest to deal with that way. We actually had a lot of fun, and I wasn’t hit, kicked, bit, or called stupid or a witch. I did have to break up a few fights between him and another violent cutie in the urba, and he yelled at me a little bit, but that was it. He was definitely more compliant and obedient than he normally is with me. Progress again. Yes!

I pushed harder today to play more with the kids, and was with them every minute having some good moments until Elena yelled at them to shower, and later to go to bed. I think this is progress too, since I was spending lots of time with them before, but it didn’t seem to be enough for Elena. She had a long day and was a bit flustered. Today is the first time she’s touched beer (at least in the house) since Carlos has left. Poor woman.

Day 27

Absolutely amazing day. I came out here to learn and grow, but I had no idea how this trip would change me. I stayed up pretty late talking to people last night and got up pretty early to talk to people today. I love Skyping with my family in the wee hours of the morning while the Spanish family is still asleep. I just type and use headphones, and at times have to use a pillow to bury my face in to keep from laughing out loud and waking the house. Good times. :)

I got a priesthood blessing from the missionaries. My testimony has grown exponentially today. The priesthood is so real and so powerful. The missionary finished and just said, “wow.” There wasn’t much else to say, there was such an indescribably powerful feeling in the room. The members of this ward have been absolute angels. I see a little bit of Heavenly Father in their eyes as they look at me with such love. I think it is amazing the spirit that is carried by people keeping their covenants. I got to play the piano for Sacrament meeting and Relief Society, and in Sunday School I offered my second oral, public prayer in Spanish. It felt so good to play a real piano, and to be able to give back in a way, however small, to this ward that has given so much to me. The gospel is amazing. It’s just so true.

Elena caught me off-guard saying that she feels like I have been closed off, and not open enough with the children. I really have tried my best and thought that things were getting better minus Hugo hating me. I hate thinking that I have made things difficult for Elena who has opened her home to me, and is already dealing with so much. I guess it’s time to make my best better, that’s what life’s all about. I was shocked when Elena told me that Dana said Hugo prefers me to her. She also told me that Hugo tells her stories about us playing together. She assured me the child doesn’t hate me. Who’d have thought? He continues to give me my daily beatings and insults and commands to leave.

I know that this trip is preparing me for great and marvelous things I’ve yet to experience. For now, I can’t wait to see what happens in the next 33 days. 

Day 26

As soon as I stepped out of my room after I woke up this morning, Hugo saw me, hardened his face, and ran at me to hit, kick, and bite me, and screamed at me to leave. Good morning, Liz.

I played a board game with Claudia, and got to attempt to understand her Spanish, a new game, and try to follow the rules that she makes up and changes as she goes along. Our multi-lingual arguments are pretty funny.

Site of the day: Museo Nacional del Ciencias Naturales. I entered through the wrong door as did a funny ginger studying here in Madrid. We toured together once we found the right door. He turned out to be nifty to have around as once we were inside the museum he definitely navigated the huge place better than I would have on my own. His Spanish was very relaxed and quick, I understood about half of what he said, but managed to understand all of his questions and answer coherently, so I think I actually fooled him pretty well. The museum was pretty cool, another break from art. Check out the giant squid! They have a super impressive collection of animals.

I liked this area of Madrid, so I did a bit more exploring, and went to an exposition on bridges in Nuevos Ministerios. I learned some interesting stuff, but to be honest, it was kind of boring. The AC was out which probably explains why I was the only one there.

I found a really nice park, and sat to write in my journal a bit and watch kids play soccer. They start so young! I watched this kid who looked close to Hugo’s age who was a total boss. I can’t remember if I’ve mentioned this, but Hugo has no skill whatsoever with a soccer ball.

A beautiful Spanish lady of 82 years sat with me and we chatted for quite a while. I couldn’t understand a lot of what she said, but what I did gather that she told me repeatedly was that I have my health, my youth, and my beauty; I am in Madrid and the weather is great—this is the life. She’s right, this is the life. While this weekend when Michael Kielbasa (WCS dance champ crush of mine if you speak that jargon) was at the venue I frequent, my dear friend got married, and I felt the need more than ever to have a hug from the little girls or anyone I know cares about me, and to have a face-to-face talk with my dad, I am in Madrid, and the weather really is great, and this really is the life. 

Day 25

Annnnnnd today Liz walked and walked and walked until she got to Retiro Park where she walked some more. It was a good day to walk. The streets were filled with singing Spaniards wearing red and white stripes from Bilbao, and cars honking some code that set everyone fist-pumping. Apparently club Atletica is in the Copa del Rey or something. You know, Spain soccer stuff, it was pretty cool though, it created a fun atmosphere.

Once I got to Retiro, I found Palacio Velazquez and Palacio de Cristal which both sport the art of Nacho Criado, another artist off his rocker who somehow got chosen to occupy two palaces with his experimental works (some of which don’t look like they were much work :p). These were nice, small, non-overwhelming visits. They’re both very spacious, light, and airy, which I enjoyed. Lots of broken glass. I had to resist the urge to jump on some of the glass sculptures and piles of broken glass that are supposed to be art. By this time I had to get back, so I walked some more, smiled at the cute kids playing in giant bubbles, pretended to not understand the Spanish from some kids asking me for money to take the little boats out on the little lake bob-a-ma-ngit, and laughed maliciously in my head while fantasizing about pelting the plethora of shameless couples with a paint ball gun. Good times. :)

Elena took the girls to their horseback riding lessons while Hugo was asleep, telling me to wake him up after so long. He of course screamed, cried, called me all kinds of names, and attempted to beat me. I just grabbed whatever limb was coming at me while I told Hugo all about what a little punk he is, and taunted him for hitting like a girl. Of course he didn’t understand any of this since it was in English and I used a sweet tone of voice. It felt good to tell him anyway. While he pouted and cried and screamed in a corner, I grabbed a book, sat down on the floor and started reading out loud to myself. Within five minutes he was cuddling with me, completely engrossed in the story. I’m sure he’ll hate me again tomorrow and dole out my daily beating. Bring it on.

Another Friday night, I did want to go to the YSA dance, but ended up working until 11, so I watched Bilbao and Barcelona play in the final game for the Copa del Rey. The family had the TV running during the first part of the game while we ate dinner. Hugo would run back and forth recounting what was happening. I think it’s crazy the little guy can follow the game so well. Oh Spain. :) It will feel so good and be so therapeutic to dance again. 

Day 24

Today's first visit—ancient Egyptian archaeology—yeah booooyyyy! Unlike the museums that are ginormously spacious and echo, the Templo de Debod is super tiny, makes me feel tall, and is actually very stuffy. I don’t know how the security guards manage to stay in those itty bitty rooms for long without passing out. It was a way cool experience though, and certainly not overwhelming, I saw everything and was there for less than an hour. There were sunbathers in their swimsuits and everything in the surrounding gardens. The sun feels amazing, I might join them one of these days.

My next visit I didn’t feel tall anymore, I felt miniscule. Almudena Cathedral. This was one of my favorite buildings to see from the outside, and so far is my favorite on the inside as well. Wow. It is gorgeous, and I was uplifted by some of the quotes from the saints. I greatly enjoyed my time there, and I ran into a missionary with his MTC teacher on my way out. They were a funny pair. The missionary was a Texan; a super little guy apparently on soccer scholarship at SVU, he could go on forever about how excited he was about soccer. His MTC teacher was a lovely Swiss gentleman who gave me some tips about when groups go which would give me a good chance for being able to do baptisms at the temple. He also offered to give me a tour of the MTC and surrounding area, and encouraged me to come to a dance tomorrow night. It’s nice to have an LDS contact here who speaks English. It was a blessing to run into them, and who’d have thought in a Catholic cathedral?

As soon as Claudia finished her homework, she insisted that I teach her a song on the piano (mini-keyboard). Fun stuff, it makes me feel good to be able to do something that I feel confident in, though I need to learn the vocabulary to teach piano in Spanish. There is still so much for me to learn, but God is granting me endless opportunities here to grow in ways I didn’t foresee. 

Day 23

This morning I rolled out of bed and commenced my regular, now zombie-like routine of setting breakfast out for the girls and I started to prepare Hugo’s bottle. Elena comes in shaking a finger at me, “no, no, no, he has fever, he not go to school today, I let him sleep longer.” Joy, more time with the little brat. I came to be thankful for the locks on the bedroom and bathroom doors at home, as there are none in the flat. There are three bathrooms in my parents’ house, yet anytime I need to use one, a kid will insist that they have to use THAT particular bathroom at THAT precise moment. However, at home, all that happens is they bang on the door all irritated, and you just have to tell them to use another bathroom. Here it’s different. This morning Hugo walked into the tiny bathroom while I was taking a shower.

Me: Hugo…¿que haces?

Hugo: Es que tengo que hacer pees.

Me in my head: Whatever, he’s three.

He comes in AGAIN a minute later right before I step out of the shower.

Me: ¿Hugo…?

Hugo: Tengo que hacer cacas.

I remind myself again that’s he’s just a baby, no big deal…then Dana walks in to ‘help’ and take Hugo to his mom’s bathroom. It’s true that housekeepers know everything. Dana now knows more about me than my own family does. I think it’s over until Hugo walks into my room while I’m getting dressed to announce, “he hecho cacas in el baño de mi madre.” Once Hugo is well enough to go back to school, I will definitely be more thankful for the blissful hour of solitude I have at the flat to get ready. Being in Europe has pushed me out of my comfort zone on so many levels.

After that rather embarrassing experience, I don’t think I’ve ever been happier to leave the flat. I went to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. So. Much. Art. I can’t believe all the incredible talent that exists in the world. It is mind-blowing. I especially enjoyed this excursion since I could hear an incredible piano concert going on while I was touring. These museums echo pretty loudly. My shoes happened to squeak and echo on this floor. There was an elderly group with a guide just ahead of me, so it was kind of fun to walk into the next room in which they were being enlightened with my noisy, squeaky shoes. I got some looks from the tourists, I would just grin, and the security guards would just shrug. :)

The academy closed early so I left with some extra time. I passed  a pasteleria and remembered that someone had encouraged me to try a palmera. I bought one and, like Ranger, searched for a special place to take my treasure. After walking through crowded streets with cigarette smoke being blown in my face I managed to find a wooded, grassy area with a hill that had no shameless couples or smokers in sight. I had a good view of a small street and watched cars hit each other as they tried to parallel park. It was nice until I tried the palmera. This was like trying the cheap chocolate from BigLots melted over a stick of butter--revolting. I’m sure I just bought it from a bad pasteleria. I threw the greasy mess away and headed back early. This ended up being a good idea since Claudia and Sophia had early release and had friends over. Dana was overwhelmed with Hugo being sick, Elena being at a dentist appointment, and four giggly girls wanting food and such, so I was glad to be able to help.  

It was also nice to be able to help Sophia with her piano practice. The girls inquired about my piano history and asked to see videos, I complied. Wearing socks on a slick wood floor, I couldn’t help but do a pirouette on my way to my room. The girls saw this, got super excited, and we ended up having a show/tell, lesson/mini dance party. I practically had to force them out of my room with promises to teach them more dance stuff later to get them to go to bed. They’re usually the ones teaching me. I think this is the first time they’ve seen me doing something I’m actually decent at and not being super lost and confused.

Day 22

Somehow, I’ve managed to get into every museum for free. This year in honor of its 20^th anniversary, Thyssen Museum offers free admission to those born in 1992. Lucky me. The layout of this museum is much easier to follow and less overwhelming than Prado, but still has an enormous collection. They have works from the 1500s to 1970, all kinds of genres. I seem to be drawn to the 17^th century Italian, French, and Spanish religious paintings. I think it’s interesting going to all these museums, the subject that I’ve seen the most portayals of is by far the crucifixion, and there are less than a handful than I can recall of the resurrection. I saw some beautiful biblical scenes today.

The hours flew by there, and I had to rush back to the piso, but it’s actually nice to be able to rush with a purpose knowing where I am going. I’m glad that I no longer have to rely on Google maps, now I look up directions on the site just so I can laugh and get there in less time on my own with a route that makes more sense. Of course, now that I say this publicly, I am doomed to get hopelessly lost in the near future and wish that I followed the suggested route.

Hugo did not come to see me when he got home from school today and declared that I am not allowed in his room. I’ve almost given up with this kid. Elena thinks he may have a bit of a fever. At least things are going well with the girls, we're learning a lot from each other.

Day 21

Another baffling moment with the girls and their breakfast. Elena bought a cereal that they like which consists of sugary granola clusters and chocolate pieces. I saw Sophia taking the chocolate chunks out. I asked if she didn't like them, she responded, "si, pero hay muchos." Too much chocolate? I don't get it.

On this cold and blustery day I met up with Will, the tutor from Florida. It was nice to have someone to explore with who shares my confusion, hatred for cold, and love for art. We went to Prado, his first time and he was overwhelmed, my second time and I was still overwhelmed. I saw all new stuff from the last time I went and still have lots and lots to see. We might make it a weekly project on Mondays, since that’s when most of the other sites are closed. We got lunch in Plaza de Neptuno. One of the specials was escalope, I looked up the meaning which read ‘escalope.’ Super helpful. I decided to order it having no idea what it was. It was some sort of delicious fried fish. I’m definitely a fan of all the seafood here, and the other food, I love gazpacho!

Hugo came straight to my room after getting home from school, per usual. We played for a little bit, and then he cuddled with me while I read stories in Spanish for almost an hour. Despite my poor reading skills, Hugo loves for me to read to him, and kept asking me to read more. Once Elena arrived he told her that he wished I would go back to my home. No comment. He was ‘punished’ later tonight for biting me while I was putting his pajamas on. His punishment was not getting a bedtime story.

Claudia likes nothing better than watching me struggle. She asked me to read in French, then dictated French words for me to write so she could correct my spelling. I’m learning a lot here, what I learned today is that I don’t know anything in French. 

Day 20

Thus terminates the first 1/3 of my trip.

I walked to church in the rain, but got there on time this week! I forgot how loud the ward is, and the noise isn’t coming from babies or little kids. A high councilman spoke who several times asked the ward to pay attention, so they quieted down a bit. He spoke slowly and clearly so I actually understood his talk. I felt a little embarrassed when the Sunday School teacher kept calling on me to read out loud. I feel like a kid trying to sound out the difficult words. The nice thing about Spanish is that unlike English, everything is pretty much phonetic and sound-out-able.

I love the hymns. I love that they bring the spirit no matter what language or how off-beat/pitch they are sung. I realized during the intermediate hymn Grande Eres Tu (How Great Thou Art) that I had a little (or a lot) of lachrymation going on. How amazing it is that I am so far away from everyone I know and love, and despite moments of feeling so alone, I haven’t travelled any distance from my Heavenly Father or the angels that he has promised to help bear me up. I see His hand is working just as much in my life and the lives of His children here in Spain as I saw in the lives of those I love at home. “I am confident that our Heavenly Father’s arms are constantly extended, ever ready to embrace each one of us and say to each one with that quiet, piercing voice, ‘I love you’ (Elder Koelliker).” Thanks for all the expressions of love from home, it means a lot to me to hear it.

The family returned tonight. Hugo still expects and insists his father will be back to give him his bath or join us for dinner. These are the only declarations from Hugo that actually evoke some sympathy from me. Now back to work. 

Day 19

I have learned not to take a dryer for granted. Doing laundry here, there is only a small washing machine next to the dishwasher in the kitchen and you have to iron EVERYTHING.

The weather is back to being cold and raining. I read in the metro station where I was to meet up with a tutor who just got here a couple days ago from Florida. Poor kid got lost and didn’t show. Having my history with Madrid’s public transportation system, I can’t blame him. So, once again, I set off on my own to visit Museo Reina Sofia. It’s a very impressive museum, home to works of Picasso, Dali, Goya, and a bunch of the other big wigs. After two hours, I was pretty tired and done with weird, erotic works, but I pushed myself to stay until I saw everything--just before closing time. I’m glad I did. There was some historic Spanish art from the 70s that used words—I enjoyed those and they sparked some lesson plan ideas I will try with my freshmen. Mom, I saw some stuff that made me think of you--be sure to remind me to tell you some ideas I saw that would go nicely with your open frame décor. ;) 


It was nice to come back to a quiet piso to myself. A luxury I will probably not have again here. Although every couple of minutes, there is a chorus of men cheering from outside. I can only guess that it has to do with soccer. Gotta love Spain. :)

Day 18

Dana was a bit frazzled this morning as she had to pick up her mother from the airport and was running late. I’m excited for her to be able to spend time with her mother since she is here alone. Between a few words I picked out from her frantic ramblings and her wild gestures, I she was asking me to cover a few things in the house for her. I was actually happy to do some housework besides the minimal stuff I do in the evenings and I didn’t mind leaving a little later since I had tonight off. The family left with some friends for the weekend so I’m free until Monday.

With the extra time, I took a deep breath and . . . went shopping. :O The last 18 days on this trip I have been confused and humbled. I realize basic things I don’t know how do to here. I need two tries to write the date correctly, face north, and construct or understand a coherent sentence in Castellano. I can hardly shop in the United States, you can only imagine this girl trying to shop in Spain with European sizes added to the whole mess that comes with shopping. I at least was able to find the stores that are Liz-friendly that I will be returning to after some sessions of deep breathing, self-affirmations, and correspondence with Lindsay. :p

When I got to a point just short of hyperventilating I quit the shopping and ran to Museo de Romanticismo. It was a nice little visit. One of the workers there would freak out whenever someone got close to stepping off the carpet designated for tourists. A couple French goofballs toured with me and enjoyed toying with her and pushing her buttons. She would act flabbergasted, roll her eyes, and swear in Spanish under breath. It added a level of entertainment to this quaint little palace hidden in an obscure street.

Another Friday night and I am not dancing. This is the longest I’ve gone without going dancing in the past three years—I miss it! Hopefully I can find some people to check out the dance venues with here.  

Day 17

In order to be more fully immersed in the Spanish ways, I toured El Estadio de Santiago Bernabeu. I definitely gained a better appreciation and respect for soccer and Real Madrid. It has a pretty cool story. One of the advantages to exploring by myself is that I get to go at my own pace, and I have noticed that in all my visits to these marvelous places, I tend to go way slower than the other tourists. I feel that while I'm there, I have to see and read everything and spend as much time in the building as possible. It definitely goes quicker when captions are in English as well as Spanish, but sometimes I wonder who they are hiring to translate as the English grammar can be pretty bad for such a big publication. :) It’s pretty fun to hear all the different languages. I hear lots of forms of Spanish, quite a bit of French, and I met some German guys today. It’s pretty nifty that almost all of the Europeans I meet seem to speak English pretty well. 

I felt pretty tired today and attributed it to the cloudy sky. I think I was right, it definitely wasn’t just me as half of the people on the metro were asleep, and everyone else looked half-dead. However, it was a beautiful day for the kids to play in the urba. J Sophia and some of her friends taught me some jump rope games in Spanish. It had been forever since I had jumped rope! That brought back some good memories. The weather beckoned a couple I had yet to meet to come down to the urba. It was fun to chat with them and play with their darling baby girl. Good day. :)

Day 16

I felt just a little queasy after leaving the Plaza de Toros. When on earth did I get so sensitive? It was interesting to go to the little museum and read about these matadors and see some of the heads of bulls that killed or were killed in a bullfight. That’s got to be a heck of a way to live. It must also take a serious man to want to be involved in such a deadly sport that still requires such elegance…and such girly, sparkly attire. It was an interesting and different visit than what I’ve seen so far, I enjoyed it.

After that visit, I walked through some of the jardines in Retiro. This park is HUGE, I still have yet to see all of it, but it’s a beautiful place to chill, people watch and read.

Hugo and I had some good moments playing in the urba. I have fun watching the kids in the community with a soccer ball. These kids have skills, and they're super nice to Hugo. Maybe by the end of my time here he won’t think I’m a bad girl. 

Day 15

Thus terminates the first ¼ of my trip.

We made the beautiful drive back to Pozuelo, again I was blown away by how beautiful Northern Spain is. I have to say God is my favorite artist and his natural creations trump any of the man-made architecture and art that I’ve seen here, as marvelous as they are.

Five hours in the car with this family actually wasn’t too bad. Except that sometimes they like to blast cheesy kid Spanish and French music—shoot me in the face, and Hugo likes to yell in my ear. While we were in Gorliz this little bundle of joy told his grandparents how bad of a girl I am. I’m so good to this little brat! Ugh. They just laughed and shook their heads. It’s gotten to a point where Elena just says that maybe it’s better that I work in the kitchen while she bathes Hugo. I won’t protest that. My patience is running thin with this undisciplined child.

The girls got to laugh at me again trying to eat fish—which looks like it just came from the ocean at dinner. Again, I had to be taught the tips for graciously removing the meat from the bones. I feel pretty stupid sometimes.

It’s nice to be back where I have wi-fi in my own room, such a luxury. I did love Bilbao and am grateful that I got to see it. It sounds like the family is going again in June for their grandfather’s birthday. I might get a chance to visit again. 

Day 14

I think it’s too funny that the make-up of Elena’s kitchen—the silverware holders, napkin holders, dishes, organization, everything mirrors her mother’s kitchen exactly. Despite feeling like I’m back to my normal appetite now, Elena’s mother says I don’t eat enough. “Coge! Coge! No, coge mucho! COGE MAS!” (This wasn’t in response to me being shy about taking food, I was taking plenty) It cracks me up that she, Elena, and Claudia, all say “aver” about every minute exactly the same way. Too funny to see how they look exactly the same in some moments.

I took a long metro ride into Central Bilbao, which is like a smaller, calmer, greener version of Madrid. I am completely enchanted with Bilbao, the Museo Guggenheim is crazily structured, and the plazas and parks surrounding Museo de Bellas Artes are gorgeous. Apparently I love rose bushes and there are lots here with old walkway architecture and vines. Neither of the cameras I brought are presently functioning. :/ I attempted some pics with Benji (I never take him with me, but I didn’t want to leave him at the flat with Hugo), none came out very well, but it’s something. This one is a statue in Don Casilda Park with a sort of chain of people helping each other up and an angel at the top. 

The Basque language here is crazy! Lots of Xs and Zs and letters that are hardly ever used in English as well as some ridiculously long words that are awkward to even sound out. I haven’t met anyone who actually speaks it, everyone just says it’s a very difficult language, and it certainly looks that way.

This family marvels at how much color I’ve gotten, they say I look like I’ve spent the weekend in the Bahamas and not Bilbao. I have been in the coastal sun almost all day yesterday and today so the little that was exposed of me has darkened quite a bit. I’ve got some pretty fun tan lines at the moment. 

Day 13

Elena and her mother told me how to get to the metro. Their instructions were to walk to sea, turn left, and just follow the pathway along the ocean. Okay, I think I can take those. :) Such a beautiful, long walk. Today was warmer, thank goodness. I still can’t believe all the green and the mountains. Absolutely beautiful. I found the metro station, and had it nearly to myself for a while. A lady got on, smiled and sat next to me, and pulled out Teachings of the Living Prophets. Yes! I introduced myself, and we talked and she showed me the church. I’m glad I found her because where the branch meets for church is a couple of rooms in this building next to a plaza--not super recognizable as a church. We ended up there a half hour early, when apparently some sisters of the branch have a choir practice of sorts. The lady lit up when we went into the building and asked if I played the piano. The sisters were elated that I could assist in their practice. It was good to feel useful and way good to play even a keyboard—it was decent enough quality to satisfy me. I was surprised to not see families or couples in the branch. Their branch is nearly entirely made up of individuals who are the only members in their family. I thought it was inspiring. There are just over 40 of them and they all seem like very strong members. The Sunday School teacher called on me to answer a question. I understood what she was asking, and withouth thinking, responded in English. The class just laughed which gave me time to think about how to word it Spanish. She called on me to give the closing prayer as well. My first oral public prayer in Spanish. Both of the missionaries serving in the branch are from Chandler, fancy that. The Branch President (he and his counselors are all young, unmarried guys) told me his girlfriend had been called to serve in Arizona. Small world. Three out of the four missionaries I have met in Spain are from Arizona. Weird.

It’s such a blessing to be able to go to church. 

The sun was out on my way back, making this piece of country even more gorgeous! It was still cold. I couldn’t believe walking through the beach that some kids were playing in the water, and people were laying out in swimsuits. Brrrr!

Day 12

Driving through the mountains in the North of Spain was definitely the most beautiful drive I have ever been on. It is so green with the thickest vegetation I have ever seen. It is fun to see where Elena gets her mannerisms. Sophia insisted that everyone watch me eat the shrimp after having made a spectacle of myself the last time. Elena’s parents are very nice.

This afternoon, we met up with Elena’s sister’s family, also very nice. The other adults went off and sent me with the kids to go cross Bizkaia Bridge, a world heritage site. It was pretty neat. We crossed in what was like a bus, but it hangs from the top part of the bridge and glides.  

Afterwards we went to a Plaza with a playground and some open space next to a bunch of stores. It was packed. In the play area, there were probably 15 soccer balls flying around, and some kids passing soccer balls to friends who had climbed on top of the playground structures. Kinda cool. 

It’s so cold here! I thought I was done with cold. Ay!

In this flat I share a little room with Claudia and Sophia. I think this will make the rest of the trip easier as I’m looking forward to going back to Pozeulo where I have my room and internet, ‘going home,’ so to speak. Now, I just have to push through feeling a little bit uncomfortable with the close and personal living arrangements with people I barely know to get through the next three days. 

Day 11

Today I found the most beautiful gem yet in Madrid: the LDS temple. If you can’t read the inscription on the statue, it says: Las Familias Pueden Ser Eternas. I thought about my family quite a bit while I was there and some of the things I miss: 

• Playing Go Fish Go Fish and jumping on the trampoline with Katie and Brooke
• Matt mumbling ‘Mornin' Jack’ every time he would pass me. 
• Callie floating around the house all airily and happily and her over-enthusiastic, “Hi Liz!” 
• Coming home and trying to walk through the entryway with all my music bags and a kid on each limb. 
• Stella. Stellllllaaaa!!!  
• Late night chats with my dad
• My mom’s devious grin when I come home and her asking me piano/English related questions like I actually know something. 
• Lake being awesomely ridiculous and making me laugh so much
• Sunday afternoons with Lindsay and Doug--the most fun couple ever

I will enjoy time with the fam more when I get back, especially with the presence of Kevin, Kimi, and Michael on the property.

On my way back from the Temple in the metro station, a sweet old lady asked me for help, and I was actually able to provide assistance! No flubs in Spanish, knowledge, or anything. Boosh!

The little time I had alone with Hugo actually went well today, I was a friend again, but he didn’t want me to bathe him, so I worked in the kitchen while Elena dealt with him. In the car coming home from the girls’ horseback riding lessons Hugo announced that his father would be home when we got there. He started crying, screaming and protesting when Elena tried to explain that his father would not be there for a long time. :(

Tomorrow we go to Bilbao to stay with Elena’s parents until Tuesday since it is yet another holiday. I’ll update if I have internet, if not, thanks for reading and have a lovely weekend. 

Day 10

The end of day 10, thus terminates the first 1/6 of my trip. I have made some headway--Dana is now giving me more freedom. She will let me go when I refuse coffee/food/pills/sunscreen/umbrellas whatever else she declares is necessary with a shrug and a “vale, como dices.”

Back to square one with Hugo. We were good friends yesterday, but today he refused to play with me or adhere to anything I said. Of course there’s nothing I love more than being hit in the face with a tennis racket by a three-year-old screaming at the top of his lungs in public with passersby giving me piteous and reproachful looks. Just what the doctor ordered. I pretty much wanted to pull my hair out, but then he beat me to it. This child is in desperate need of some serious discipline. In the urba there are some great kids who will play with him even though he gets in the way of their soccer games. I am grateful that so many in this community are sweet and patient with Hugo. He is already starting to understand my English, in fact, I’m pretty sure this child understand both my English and my deficient Spanish better than anyone else here. So crazy that he gets my Spanish phrases no matter how poorly I construct them, and picks up on my English when Elena struggles to understand after having studied it her whole life. 

Today: Museo de Prado: the mother load. Wow. It is utterly overwhelming. I was there during all of my free time today, and still didn’t get close to seeing everything.  So much history and so many beautiful portrayals…and of course even more disturbing portrayals. I will definitely be going back at least once if not a couple more times in the 50 days left. 

Day 9

Oh, how I missed the sun! Today was the first warm day since I’ve been here. Glorious! Today I toured the Royal Palace. It was breathtaking, I got dizzy trying to take in the enormity of intricate details in some of these rooms. I loved visiting, but I can’t believe royals would enjoy living in a place where everyday you are surrounded by portrayals of lions preying on deer, bloody battles, faces sticking out of vases, and an amplitude of naked people. It really is amazing. I got distracted by other pretty buildings in my vicinity, and being in a shiny object-chasing kind of mood, I got lost again. Wore myself out running through the streets of Madrid in the sun, and ended up arriving back at the flat just two minutes before Dana brought Hugo from school. Of course he wore me out even more. However, he didn’t hit me even once today! He only yelled at me one time, but complied with the bath (Elena told me I could bribe him with TV time). He did manage to soak the front of my shirt with a water gun, but this was serious improvement.

Talking to random people about what I am doing here, when I tell them that I am here for two months, they always say, “that’s it?” Two months seems like a long time to me, but it’s good to remember that I really don’t have that much time here. This family has to deal with the absence of their father for six months. It definitely puts it into perspective. Days like today when I run out of time to see everything I want to makes me grateful for the 51 more days that I do have here.  Time is already starting to accelerate.

Day 8

This family has an abundance of chocolate cereals, all of which I think are the best thing that could ever happen to a breakfast. I learned that the girls don’t like them! Claudia likes one of them, so I asked her what type of milk she wanted, she held up ‘drinking yogurt.’ She had me try it and I thought it had gone bad, REALLY bad, but I guess that’s just how it tastes. This is the first food I’ve tried that I haven’t liked. I can’t believe the girls eat it with cereal! Ech.

I spent my free time in Madrid. I have to say, the metro in the city center is pretty nifty, much better than the metro that goes out to Pozuelo. In my explorations today I was hardly ever lost! Progress. :) Biblioteca Nacional is a huge building, with only a little area as a museum featuring the history of the Bible. It was still cool. It took me a while to read and understand all the exhibits. The surrounding area is full of amazing architecture. I walked through the streets and then through Puerta Del Sol, Plaza Isabel, and Plaza Mayor taking random pictures. These areas are very touristy, it was fun. Madrid is such a gem.

Definite progress with Hugo. He called for me as soon as he got home from school, and asked to play with me all evening. We had fun. I showed him on my watch what time he had to take a bath, and he agreed. When the time actually came, Mr. Hyde came out and I was smacked in the face and called stupid. He let me dress him without much of a fight, so I’m very happy with the progress today.

I miss West Coast. I know I shouldn’t be thinking like this, but June 29th my flight gets into Phoenix at 6pm. There should be ample time to go home and do stuff, make a couple stops to visit select people I will be most anxious to see, hit the dance floor by 10 or 11, and then have the best sleep of my life in my own bed. 52 days. :)

Day 7

Made it a week! 7 more and I’m on my way home.

Got up early not feeling well and helped get the kids out the door. Of course, Hugo is a gem in the morning. Elena asked me if my brothers and sisters were like that. I can’t say that any were anywhere close to being that bad.

After they left, I watched the CES broadcast with Elder Jensen, it was marvelous except I fell asleep half way through. I felt a little better after I woke up, still just a headache and sore throat. I told Dana I was fine, which was the truth, but she studied my face, and said that I wasn’t, and tried to force pain meds down my throat. Sometimes I have to remind myself that I’m an adult and I can stand up for myself despite my elementary Spanish. I like Dana a lot, but sometimes it’s hard to maintain dignity with this woman. True story, I pretended to take the pills to satisfy her and then ran like heck out the door to finally get out to Madrid.

Today wandering and being lost in Madrid per usual, I saw Arco de la Victoria (there’s a beautiful look out area that seems to be a popular make-out spot), Plaza Cristo Rey, Hospital Clinico, and Ciudad Universitaria, which is beautiful, but mostly blocked off. I kept staring at this big building, and decided to walk to it just to find out what it is. Museo de America, and it’s closed on Mondays, but at least my curiosity is satisfied.

Elena told me that the community in Pozuelo has unusually large families for Europe, since the average is less than two children per family. I noticed walking around that the women seem kind of old to have children so young. Then I realized that these women all wear very little if any makeup, so maybe they just look a little older? Interesting, that the norm is no makeup, but heels and hose are a part of every outfit.

Hugo is still a pill, but I got to spend an hour with him in the urba playing ‘tennis,’ we have a lot of fun when he forgets that he doesn’t like me. I also connected more with the girls, especially Sophia since she understands more English. They asked to see pictures of my family and then my boyfriend, which I was more than happy to share. Then they showed me a photo album from when they lived in Brusellas. 

Day 6

With the awful weather and both the girls having a virus, it was inevitable that I would catch something. Difficult time getting up this morning after minimal sleep with a head cold, but I managed to be up and got ready and left for church at 9:15 while the family was still sleeping. Church starts at 11:30. Thanks to the kindness of strangers , occurrences stemming from avoiding creepy strangers, and answered prayers, I finally managed to find the church at 11:50. I was absolutely elated, though disappointed that I thought I missed the Sacrament, but thanks to a confirmation and about 5 baby blessings, I still got to take it. This was very much needed and made Liz very much happier.

The ward is extremely diverse, and now that I think about it, not a single individual that I personally met was Spanish. The culture of the ward is different than what I am used to. During Sacrament meeting and Relief Society, everyone was conducting conversations. They were quiet during prayers and during the Sacrament, but never at any other time. Neither the chorister nor the pianist can count, and the ward is tone-deaf (as am I, and during this meeting I couldn’t hide behind an instrument to cover it up), but they sing praises with all their heart, and the spirit is definitely still there, which I love. They have a nice group of kids in the YSA Sunday School class who were all very kind and helpful to me. They invited me to some activities, none of which I can attend so far as I am working those hours, but it was way nice to meet members my age. The Primary visited Relief Society to sing and give out little ornament things and cake for Mother’s Day. I took it as a good excuse to break my fast a little early.

With my cold and little sleep, I didn’t care to do any more exploring, so I returned home while the family was still out to chill, eat, do dishes, and talk to people who make me abundantly happy.

I ate gespacho for the first time, once again: love. The food here is amazing. I’m uber excited to go explore more of Madrid in warmer weather. Hopefully I can knock this cold out quickly. Yes, Mom, I am drinking lots of water. The cups here are ridiculously tiny. This family hardly drinks any water. 

Day 5

I am really trying with these kids. The girls are easy enough, but it’s harder to connect with them now that Elena is strict that I only speak English with them and they don’t understand me. Hugo is a terror. This morning I have been called stupid, a witch, and have taken as heavy a beating as a 3-year-old is capable of doling out. As Elena said in her broken English, “he is horrible, like a bull.” One minute he is happy and laughing playing with me and the next insisting that one of his sisters or his mom takes my place. I am trying, but it will take a while for him to warm up to me completely, and then it still won’t be easy as he fights his family as well. Is it weird that I still love this kid even though he is a royal pain?

I was told that the church was hard to find and given how pathetically lost I’ve been, I decided it would be a good idea to try to find it today as I’m very anxious to be able to attend tomorrow. The roads getting there are very confusing and limited to pedestrians. At one point I had three older ladies who despite seeming to be in agreement, were talking over each other, gesturing and giving me directions very quickly in Spanish, of which I gleaned very little. I don’t care to go into detail, but suffice it to say that 5 hours later, a tired, hungry, cold, sore Liz gave up and decided to return since it was raining and getting dark. I can at least get to the area somewhat efficiently now, so I’m hoping if I leave early enough tomorrow morning, I will be able to find it in time.

Elena was the only one home when I returned since the kids were at a friend’s house for dinner. It was nice to have some time alone with her when she’s relaxed and not yelling at the kids or chastising me for misunderstanding her directions. It was good to be able to laugh with her as we prepared and ate dinner and tried to communicate more complex ideas through our language barrier.

Today, I tried and failed, but tomorrow is a new day. 

Day 4

I have finally successfully made it to Madrid and back on my own. I feel worlds better about my life here now that I at least have a couple points of reference and am confident that I can get home. It has been weird not having my cell phone, but I bought a watch today from a super nice Columbian chap at Plaza Espana and with my watch and maps that I kind of know how to use now that I know which direction I am facing, I am much more comfortable and excited to explore here. Everything here is so beautiful, and Madrid is amazing, I look forward to exploring it in the heat, as it has been cold and raining this week.

Elena asked me to play with Hugo in an area outside at their club while Sophia was in her horseback riding class and she went shopping. We played soccer for a while, and then, it starts pouring rain, it was already cold so we went in the main office building, very small. Hugo is some piece of work, especially in public places, that 1.25 hours seemed like an entire day. I don’t think dealing with this little boy is going to get any easier. However, I now understand which soaps to use for his bath, apparently yesterday I misread the labels and tried to wash him with lotion. I told Elena once I realized my mistake and she just laughed Thank goodness for a patient family.
The girls got a kick out of my reaction to seeing an entire shrimp with the head for the first time, and laughed even harder watching me try to eat it. Sophia taught me the proper method—these shrimp you have to peel. The rice had something else in it, I asked what it was, and Sophia told me it was calamar, it was freaking delicious! I just barely looked it up, it’s squid. Love. :)

Day 3

Today was the first day the family went to school and work. However, the girls both had fevers and stayed home. I met Dana, the housekeeper, who is here every day from 8:30-5. She is from Romania, super nice, she came to work in Spain on her own a year and a half ago and didn’t know Spanish until she got here. It was way nice to talk to her as she relates to my situation, knowing little Spanish, and no one outside the recently-met family. I watched some cartoons with the sick little girls then spent about 4 hours exploring Pozuelo de Alarcon. I attempted to buy an Abono pass. Good thing is that I still qualify for a youth pass which is quite a bit cheaper, however, it’s a big ordeal. I had to bring my passport, and a copy of my passport, as well as a passport photo for the pass, and I have to wait 20 days now for the card to be ready. So I will only be using that pass for my last month here, and now just have to buy 1 or 10 passes at a time. The public transportation system is much more complicated than the Valleymetro in Phoenix that I am used to.

Pozuelo is beautiful, but I get confused since all the roads are so curvy and seem circular, I am always lost. One lady approached me and asked where a certain street I was. Of course, I had no idea, I pulled out a map that I had bought earlier and pointed the street out to her, even after seeing it on a map, I still wasn’t sure which way it was. Luckily she did. Just when I thought I had ventured out pretty far, and was getting lost, I look up and am right next to the piso, on the opposite side that I would have thought. Ay. I returned when it started raining and Dana pretty much force-fed me lunch. Dana and the family all say that I eat too little. I’m pretty sure I eat as much as they do, but whatever, maybe with all the nerves I am eating less than I normally do.

The rest of the day was pretty emotional as Carlos, the father, is being deported to Afghanistan tomorrow. Of course it’s harder on the family than me, but I didn’t like saying goodbye. Out of anyone, he has definitely done the most to make me feel a part of the family and has gently encouraged me to overcome my shyness and be proactive and comfortable with the family. Not to mention, he speaks the best English which made things much easier for me. Now the real work and reason why I came to this family begins.  

Day 2

It was great to sleep. But, of course I wouldn’t notice during the daytime that the switch for the bathroom light is in the hallway. This issue must have been addressed early in this family, because I know that in mine, people would have the light turned off on them in the bathroom ALL THE TIME. And naturally the toilet paper would be out for me in the middle of the night with my not knowing where the light is. Fun adventures.

Today was another holiday and thus spent entirely with the family. We went to a club where the girls take horseback riding lessons and ate lunch and watched the kids ride their bikes. I met many of the neighbors and their kids in ‘La urba’ which is like a park in the middle of their flats. I don’t seem to have any issues in one-on-one conversations in Spanish, because people speak slowly and clearly and use words I understand. However, trying to follow a conversation jumping around among five women, I hardly catch anything. Even at times with the family when they speak quickly to each other, I get lost. Whenever I catch my reflection somewhere, I have an unfamiliar look that reminds me of the French guy in the airport with the wide eyes. It’ll be a while adjusting to my new life, but I’m already learning so much. I felt like a million dollars when Hugo introduced me to a woman and tells her “Esa chica es Elizabeth y ella habla en Ingles, pero tambien habla en espanol. Ella es superlista.” Liz brushes shoulders off

As warned, couples are shamelessly intimate in public, and I was surprised at some raunchy commercials the parents seemed fine with their kids watching since they freaked when the kids saw a cheesy mildly-portrayed murder in an old film. Spaniards stand very close when they talk and people I barely meet kiss me. It is interesting to watch how close the kids are with other parents. In the parks, your kids may as well be anyone’s kids as the relationship can look the same. I do like the closeness of the community in this culture.

Day 1

Worst. Sleep. Ever.

The family is so welcoming! The girls are sweethearts, the little boy is going to be a serious handful. Communication is actually going better than I expected. The Spanish is coming to me as I need it, and we communicate a little bit in English as well, though Hugo complains every time and demands that we all speak Spanish.

After unpacking, we walked around Pozuelo de Alarcon, and returned for what is to them an early lunch, and to me a late lunch at 2pm. Elena is an amazing cook. We ate pasta and tuna fish. Best. Tuna fish. Ever. 

Myth #1 This Spanish family does not eat slowly, I don’t know how so much food disappears from their plates so quickly. I tried to shovel it down to keep up, but they thought I didn’t like it because I was eating so slowly.

Myth #2 This Spanish family and their community do not go home for siesta.

Driving is scary and crazy and I’m glad that I don’t have to do it here. People pretty much change lanes, straddle lanes as they choose, and the cars are packed like sardines.

We went to El Parque Del Beun Retiro and watched a magician and giant bubbles. Madrid is spectacular, and there is so much to see! I will be busy for the next two months.

My head is spinning with trying to wrap my head around all the Spanish and trying to remember where everything is. I know it will come, and it will probably be better after I get some sleep.